The Palmyra Palms of the North (Source: Chasing Light)
Traveling to Jaffna on the inter-city express may not be the
smoothest journey, but it is far less stressful and time-consuming than any
other means of transportation. I found the idea of a 7-hour journey rather
daunting, but it’s nothing a good book and company cannot remedy. Not to
mention the scenic beauty of the landscape on either side of the track.
Having never been further north than Anuradhapura before, I
found myself drawn to the window as the train moved beyond the ancient capital.
The scenery gradually morphed from lush greenery and rolling hills to open
plains decorated with tall Palmyra trees.
Approaching Vavuniya, the gateway to the north, the
indisputable difference in setting and atmosphere, in comparison to that of the
western towns is palpable.
As a child Jaffna has always been a land of sad stories, a
foreign place we would probably never get to see. Now as we neared this
forbidden kingdom, I found myself thinking about the lives lost in the Civil
War. Looking out at the lush, open, water-filled landscape of the Elephant Pass
Causeway I was reminded of those whose remains still lie hidden around this
thin stretch of land. It was with a sense of excitement and almost-reverence
that I watched the sign come into view at the Jaffna train station.
The Elephant Pass War Memorial (Source: Jaffna Tours)
Archeological excavations conducted in the early 20th
century uncovered evidence, which suggests that the northern part of Sri Lanka
was a flourishing settlement dating back to 2000 BCE, well before the birth of
Vijaya. This was the time the Bronze Age began in China, when the ancestors of
the Latins arrived in Italy, when Stonehenge was completed and glass appeared
for the first time. It would seem that civilization in Jaffna is as old as that
of Mantua and just as rich in history, politics and romance. I for one,
couldn’t wait to explore this ancient and once forbidden part of our country.
Run by the Sri Lankan Army, the Thal Sevana resort in
Kankesanthurai is one of the better hotels in Jaffna. Embracing the northern
coast and nestled snuggly on a quiet beach, the resort is the ideal location to
enjoy the ocean for all its beauty, unhindered by the smell and sight of
pollution that one often finds in Colombo. Blending with the natural
environment of the beach, the structure of Thal Sevana combines true Sri Lankan
hospitality with modern facilities and accommodation.
Unable to resist the urge to explore we visited the
well-known Nilavarai Well. A natural underground water well, which according to
some, is tied to the legend of Rama, it was said to be bottomless until a
recent investigation carried out by the Sri Lanka Navy revealed the well’s
depth to be 52.5 meters. The awesome thing about the Nilavarai Well is that its
water never depletes. Connected to a mysterious underground source of water,
the well has never run dry, even during the harshest of droughts, making it an
almost-reverent spot to the locals, especially the farmers of the neighboring
fields.
Nilavarai Well (Source: Jaffna Wikipedia)
On the way to Chunnakam to visit the Kadururgoda Raja Maha
Vihara, we made an interesting discovery. It seems that during this particular
time of the year showers in Jaffna, though somewhat frequent, do not last more
than 10-15 minutes. It was raining quite steadily when we got to the temple
premises. The history of Kadurugoda dates back to the Anuradhapura period. When
during the reign of King Devanampiya Tissa, the Theri Sangamitta arrived in
Dambakolapatuna with a sapling of the sacred Bo tree, Kadurugoda was one of the
places she is believed to have visited. But the stupas in the small field at
Kadurugoda, covered in time and moss, tell a tale of deception and murder.
During the reign of King Sangili in the 16th century, sixty Arhat
Bhikkus fled the king’s persecution. On their way to India they stopped at
Kadurugoda and received alms from the locals. Among the food donated was a
poisoned mushroom curry, which caused the demise of all sixty Bhikkus. Of the
sixty stupas built to enshrine the remains of the Bhikkus, only twenty or so
remain intact. Sheltering beneath one of the tall trees that stand like silent
sentinels, I couldn’t help but wonder if perhaps the weather gods opened the
heavens to shed a few tears in memory of the tragedy that occurred all those
years ago.
The Stupas at the Kadurugoda Raja Maha Vihara (Source:Mapio.net)
Next on the list was Dambakolapatuna, where King Devanampiya
Tissa greeted Theri Sangamitta, and the story of the sacred Bo tree in
Anuradhapura began. Thankfully, the rain had ceased and the sky was a clear
blue that was slowly turning to an early sunset mauve. An enormous golden arch
guards the entrance to one of the most historic sites in Sri Lanka. From the
entrance the path leads to a pure white stupa, its kotha proudly reaching to the heavens. The surrounding garden is
the very epitome of peace and tranquility; the only sounds coming from the
ocean and the birds. A replica of the ship that brought Sangamitta to Sri Lanka
is anchored in a little lake nearby, whilst a descendant of the sacred Bo tree
stands in the garden beside the stupa. Here where spirituality, history and
nature blend in easy harmony, there is also a large bronze statue depicting
Sangamitta in her magnificent ship and King Devanampiya Tissa standing in the
sea with his arms raised in respect.
Theri Sangamitta and her brother Arhat Mahinda helped King Devanampiya
Tissa launch a wave of religious awakening, Buddhism, which counts so many
millions of followers to this very day. But for Theri Sangamitta her mission in
Sri Lanka began when she set foot on the golden beach of Dambakolapatuna.
The Stupa at Dambakolapatuna (Source: Jaffna Tours)
Driving back from Dambakolapatuna we stopped at the shrine
of Our Lady of Lourdes in Mathagal. A
large rock hewn grotto with its back to the sea, surrounded by carefully
detailed statues of the Way of the Cross, the shrine is the ideal location for
quiet outdoor prayer. However, what caught my eye was a pillar that stood a
little way out to sea. On this pillar stood a statue of the Holy Mother;
watching over the ocean unmoved by the waves that thrashed at her feet. It
reminded me of a popular hymn: “Hail
Queen of Heaven, the Ocean Star, guide of the wanderer here below”. I
believe that many a fisherman and sailor has been saved from the sea by her
loving guidance and protection.
Later, our guides took us to a mysterious pool, which
according to legend holds amazing powers of fertility. The blackened ruin of a
colonial structure marks the turn in the road and there I met a friendly little
puppy who ignored a biscuit for a little tenderness and attention. The pool was
further down the road. The first thing I noticed when we got to the location
was a small colorful shrine guarded by strange life-size statues of a man and
woman with fish heads in place of human ones. According to the legend, the
couple had been cursed with infertility and hideous faces, but the magical
water of the pool cleansed them and lifted the spell. The pool itself is a
large square carved into the ground, surrounded by a frame of stone and
overlooking the sea. However, though its waters may have held healing powers in
ancient times, I strongly suspect that whoever bathed in the pool today would
walk out of it with more ailments than they had when they stepped in.
