Thursday 5 November 2020

Leading Historical Ladies You Probably Didn’t Know About


 Chapter 1. To Hell with Boundaries


This article recounts the tales of two women you’ve probably not heard about before. One born royal and the other a concubine, both living in times when being a woman was considered a weakness, and women were seen as inferior beings to be used and controlled. These two badass ladies defied the traditions and politics of their respective times to rise to the very top, serve their countries and make two very large marks in history. Determined, bold and clever, Tamar dealt with greedy nobles, corrupt politicians, a traitorous husband and foreign enemies to bring about Georgia’s golden age. Wu Zetian, the intelligent, cunning and decisive concubine, ruthlessly crushed all opposition in her rise to power, and while many view her story with mixed feelings, there is no doubt that she was an effective ruler who brought prosperity, learning and expansion to China.


 The Female King - Tamar the Great of Georgia


(Source: Georgianjournal.ge)

Well before Isabella of Castille or Elizabeth I of England showed Europe what a woman ruling in her own right could do, there was Tamar. Often called Tamar the Great, she brought Georgia to the peak of its power and glory.

 A member of the Bagratoni dynasty, Tamar faced significant opposition from the aristocracy when she ascended the throne of Georgia in 1184, as the country’s first Queen Regnant. Wishing to be free of the repressive policies of Tamar’s father and utilize her gender, which they saw as a weakness, for their own benefit, the Georgian aristocracy presented a strong opposition against Tamar’s rule. In the early years of her reign, the young queen was forced to make significant concessions to the aristocracy and was even pressured into dismissing her father’s appointees who had helped the old king maintain strict control over the nobility. A husband was chosen for her – Yuri Bogolyubsky, who proved himself to be an incompetent drunkard among other things. But over the years, Tamar was becoming more and more assertive of her rights as Queen Regnant, and had begun to build and expand a power base of her own by cleverly elevating those most loyal and able, be they noble, clerical or commoner. 

Two years into her marriage, Tamar divorced Yuri on the grounds of drunkenness and sodomy. However, Yuri did not go quietly. Aided by members of the aristocracy who wished to check Tamar’s growing, power he attempted two coups. Both of which failed and he was forced into obscurity. Soon, Tamar had by various means neutralized those of the aristocracy who had opposed her. Tamar’s next husband was of her own choosing. David Soslan was an able commander, and would become Tamar’s most trusted and ardent supporter. With David as the leader of her armies, Tamar sought to expand the Georgian empire further than ever before. Two of the most significant battles of Tamar’s reign were at Shamkori (1195) and Basiani (1202). Using the decline of the hostile Seljuq Turks, Tamar adopted an energetic foreign policy, the majority of which relied on the powerful military elite. Building upon the successes of her predecessors, Tamar succeeded in consolidating an empire, which dominated the Caucasus. She also played a crucial role in the formation of the Empire of Trebizond, which was made up of the northeastern corner of Anatolia and southern Crimea. 

The Georgian Empire during Tamar's reign (Source: Culture Trip)

It was during Tamar’s rule that the principle of Georgian architecture underwent a significant change, this can be seen in the several large-scale domed cathedrals that were built during her reign. In art and architecture, the Byzantine-inspired presentation of royal power saw several modifications due to Tamar’s unique and unprecedented role as a female ruler (in her own right). 

In medieval Georgian sources, Tamar is known as “Mepe” (king) and as such, is sometimes called King Tamar, rather than Queen. Her line continued through her son and daughter, both of whom ruled Georgia after her. But none of her successors ever measured up to the greatness of Tamar. The empire she worked so hard to build would crumble a mere twenty years after her death, but her legacy lives on to this very day, not only in Georgia, but the rest of the world as well. Today, despite not being one of the most universally well-known historical figures, Tamar the Great joins the ranks of the greatest rulers in history, as a bold, clever and dedicated leader, who showed the world that a queen could achieve just as much greatness as any king. The epitome of a leading lady, she was canonized as the Holy Righteous Queen Tamar by the Georgian Orthodox Church and is also a saint of the Antiochian Orthodox Church.


 Concubine to Conqueror - Wu Zetian


(Source: Pintrest)


Some consider her a villainous tyrant, others an effective ruler. Whatever one may believe, there is no dispute to the fact that Wu Zetian made her mark in history and played a key role in the development of her country. 

Wu hailed from a wealthy family and her father ensured that she received a much more extensive education than what was required for women of that time. Beginning as a concubine of Emperor Taizong of the Tang dynasty, Wu rose to become the de facto ruler of China, first through her husband Emperor Gaozong, and then through her sons the Emperors Ruizong and Zhongzong. She subsequently became Empress Regnant and founder of the Zhou dynasty, ruling China with an iron fist from 690-705.

Following the death of Emperor Taizong, Wu became a consort of the late emperor’s son and successor, Emperor Gaozong. Charismatic and well-educated, she enjoyed the absolute interest of her husband, resulting in her becoming the leading lady of the emperor’s court. Far more decisive and proactive than her husband, she was the most powerful and influential woman at court during a period when the Tang dynasty was at the zenith of its power, and as such, she enjoyed honors and privileges never enjoyed by any other Chinese Empress in history. Unlike any other woman before or after her, Wu was present whenever the emperor held court and even held court independently on occasions when the emperor was ill. She was even given charge of the imperial seal, which meant that no document or order could receive validity without her knowledge and permission.  

When her baby daughter died in 654, Wu accused the empress at the time, Empress Wang of murdering her child. What really killed the baby girl is unknown, however history gives us three primary possibilities. 

1. According to folklore, Wu is portrayed as a power-hungry woman who murdered her own child to implicate Wang. 

2. The childless Wang did murder the Wu’s child out of jealousy.

3. The girl died of asphyxiation or crib death, likely brought about by the poor ventilation systems of the time.

Wu’s accusation marked the first step in the downfall of Empress Wang, who in 655 was replaced as empress by Wu. Wang and another consort named Xiao were the first victims to be killed by order of Empress Wu. Chancellors, officials, in-laws, step-sons, nephews, and even her own sons, grandsons and granddaughters were not safe from Wu, if they aroused her suspicion or invoked her disfavor. 

After the death of her husband, her youngest son became emperor under the temple name Ruizong. However, Wu was the true ruler of the country in substance and appearance. The new emperor was kept under her strict control. No officials were allowed to see the emperor without her permission and neither was the emperor allowed to make any decisions when it came to matters of state. In 690 however, Wu had Emperor Ruizong relinquish the throne to her. Thus, the Zhou dynasty was born with Wu as imperial ruler. 

Wu consolidated her power through her influence at court, a system of spies and her secret police force, which she used to eliminate any of her real, potential or perceived enemies by means of execution, forced suicide, murder, demotion or exile. 

However, despite her bloody rise to power, Wu’s political and military leadership ensured the major expansion of the Chinese empire, extending well beyond its previous borders and deep into Central Asia. Wu used both the military and diplomacy to enhance her international position.

Wu’s reign also saw Taoism, Buddhism, education and literature receive an unprecedented extent of state support. Her court was a center of literary creativity. The Chinese people were to a great extent satisfied with her rule as apart from court intrigue and corruption, the administration was run well and the economic situation brought about a rise in living standards. 

"To the horror of traditional Chinese historians, all members of the shih class, the continued success of the T'ang was in large measure due to an ex-concubine who finally usurped the throne itself...Though she was ruthless towards her enemies, the period of her ascendency was a good one for China. Government was sound, no rebellions occurred, abuses in the army and administration were stamped out and Korea was annexed, an achievement no previous Chinese had ever managed." - Yong Yap Cotterell and Arthur Cotterell.

Wu Zetian's blank stele at the Qianling Mausoleum (Source: China Tours)



Thursday 16 July 2020

The Streetwalker

                                                   

(Source: thegreencities.com)
 


The Streetwalker

 

With blood red lips and stiletto heels,

She strolls about the road,                  

Tossing her head at the girls across the street.

She’s worth more than that entire load.

 

Ten years and more she’s been at this work.

She’s fought and clawed and even bled,

To win this little corner of hers,

To keep her safe and her kid fed.

 

They don’t like her and she knows it,

Those girls on the other side,

They’re jealous of her and want to be her.

If only they’d listen, but they won’t. She knows, she’s tried.

 

She’s tried to tell them of the first time,

She cried herself to sleep that night.

Tried to tell them of her dear friend, Molly,

Her customer choked her a little too tight.

 

These young ones, they just don’t know yet.

They’re young and clueless, and some not very smart,

Looking for a little fun and adventure,

They just don’t get the horrors that come with the part.

 

She laughs to herself; she called them “young ones”,

 But she’s not that much older,

Life has made her a cynical old woman,

And every job leaves her that much colder.

 

She’s used to the disdain of the passersby.

They think she doesn’t have a clue.

Just the other day the lady in the shop ‘round the corner said:

“We don’t serve the likes of you!”

 

She was fourteen when they took her,

Sixteen when they dumped her on the street,

With a weak baby wailing in her arms,

She did the only thing she could to get her kid something to eat.


                                           - Society destroys and then condemns - 

 

                                                                                                                  By Stephanie Nugara




Sunday 7 June 2020

Days Among the Palmyras - Chapter 3



Sign Post at Point Pedro (Source: Pintrest)


Our last morning in Jaffna saw us up bright and early on our way to Point Pedro. I think it’s fair to say that traffic in Jaffna is far more civilized than the chaos we encounter on the roads of Colombo on a daily basis. The town of Point of Pedro was quiet and peaceful, with just a few people out and about their morning business. When we got to the precise spot known as Point Pedro, the first thing that caught our attention were the remains of a large house overlooking the sea. The tell-tale black scorch marks that coated what remained of the walls made it very clear as to what had caused the ruination, making it just another victim of the Civil War. With the sea thrashing at its base the ruined house looked like an image brought to life from a novel. The view from Point Pedro is one of the infinite ocean. Grey and wild it brought to mind James Reeve’s poem - “The sea is a hungry dog, giant and grey. He rolls on the beach all day. With his clashing teeth and shaggy jaws hour upon hour he gnaws the rumbling, tumbling stones, and ‘Bones, bones, bones, bones!’ The giant sea-dog moans, licking his greasy paws.”

At Sakkottai, the northernmost tip of the island, we were in time to watch the fisherman haul in their nets. There is a stone sign at the very tip of the island painted with the national flag. At the base of this small structure, sitting straight and dignified as if he knew the significance of his location, was a noble hound. It was an amusing sight to see, as he seemed very protective of his spot and all the other animals in the vicinity were giving him his space. 


The Noble Hound that Guards Sri Lanka (Source: Author)

From Sakkottai our guides took us to a rambling lighthouse nearby. Built in 1916, the 31-meter-high pillar no longer serves its original purpose and is guarded by the Sri Lanka Navy. The officers who greeted us were most courteous and warned us not to enter the lighthouse as the inner workings of the building are in ruins. The only occupants it now boasts are pigeons and crows. The lighthouse was one of the few structures that survived the 2004 tsunami, which laid waste to much of Point Pedro. As a tribute to its resilience, the point to which the water level rose is marked half way up the century-old pillar.

Ever seen a picture of a deserted little beach with a single coconut tree in the center? I remember seeing quite a few such images in cartoons and a couple of movies. I've even drawn such images as a child, but never did I think I would actually stand in such a scene, and I definitely would never have imagined the quietness and peace of such a place. It’s funny how an environment that’s almost empty could be so beautiful. But the golden sand, the fresh green of the tree, and the clear blue of the sea and sky emit a gentle beauty that no master-artist could ever capture.


Must-See Beach at Point Pedro (Source: Clickin Moms)


A couple of hours later we were on the train back to Colombo. Watching the scenery change once again, I began to reflect on the places I’d visited, the things I’d seen and the people I’d met. Jaffna is most definitely another world in comparison to any other part of the island. There is irony in the fact that a place, which was a battleground almost ten years ago should be an ideal place for a fascinating holiday. True, there are wounds yet to be healed and scars that will perhaps linger forever, but the people of this peninsula have moved on, looking forward to a brighter future than dwelling on a bloody and dismal past. No longer is Jaffna a forbidden kingdom, dangerous and unpredictable, but a land of hope far away from the chaos and drama of Colombo. The ruins that lie scattered throughout the north are reminders of what Sri Lanka has survived, while the ancient buildings that have stood for thousands of years are testaments of the past glories of our country. This land of Palmyra trees, battered and bruised, where the blood of the brave runs deep within its earth, is a place where the past meets the present and all religions flourish in quiet harmony. Thus, in quiet reflection I watched as the train took us further and further away.


Thursday 4 June 2020

Days Among the Palmyras - Chapter 2

Morning came bright and windy as we set off on our way to Nagadeepa the next day. As we travelled towards the Jaffna Pannai Bridge, which joins the mainland and the island of Kayts, the road took us through some of the cities that make up the peninsula. Some of the now abandoned buildings and houses in these towns still bear the scars of war, a few have even been reduced to nothing but blackened shells, that stand as testament to the suffering and loss the people of Jaffna have overcome. Thin strips of road with the ocean on either side; connect each island with the other. From Kayts we travelled along the Valukkairaru-Punkudutivu-Kurikadduwan road to the island of Kurikadduwan. A series of boats ferry passengers between Kurikadduwan and Nagadeepa. 

Gazing at the island from the boat, the Naga Deepa Raja Ma ha Vihara and the Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Kovil stand side by side, greeting visitors, whatever their religion, together in perfect harmony. It’s a bit of a walk from the boat dock along the paved path to the Maha Vihara, and on a warm sunny day the distance can feel twice as long, but once you reach the welcoming shade of the vihara’s Bo tree you will find that a little sweat was worth it as you find yourself greeted by a large vivid statue of the Buddha and Mucilanda, the giant seven-headed cobra. 

The Naga Deepa Raja Maha Vihara is one of the sixteen sacred Buddhists sites in Sri Lanka and according to legend was visited by Gautama Buddha following his enlightenment. Despite the site being one of the Solosmasthana, we found ourselves to be the only group to visit the vihara at that time. According to legend the Buddha’s visit brought peace between two warring Naga kings, Chulodara and Mahodara who in turn built the Rajayathana Stupa that stands to this day in all its silvery glory. Famously reconstructed and re-developed by great kings like Devanampiya Tissa and Dutugemunu, the stupa once housed the gem-studded throne upon which the Buddha once sat and preached to the Nagas. The location of the legendary throne is lost to time, but the experience of standing on a site that has been a pilgrim and tourist destination for thousands of years is a treasure in its own way.

Behind the stupa stands the shrine room built in the traditional style. Perhaps most people would have found the enormous statues of the Buddha to be the main attractions of the room, however, I found myself more fascinated by the vibrant paintings that adorned every inch of the walls. Depicting scenes from history and legend, the frescoes have been painted in a more recent version of the customary Sinhalese style that has persevered through the ages. 


The Naga Deepa Raja Maha Vihara and the Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Kovil (Source: Author)

Seven hundred meters from the Buddhist Solosmasthana is one of the Shakti Peethas of the Hindu religion. Barely 10 minutes away, the Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Kovil dominates the landscape of the northern half of the island with its brilliantly colored gopurams (gateway towers) rising skywards. The tallest of these, the Raja Raja Gopuram reaches an impressive height of 108 feet, made up of statues of the many deities of Hinduism.

According to legend the temple was built by Lord Indra and is one of the 64 sites (shakti peethas) where parts of the dismembered body of Sati fell from Lord Shiva’s arms. From times unknown devotees have visited this sacred site, dedicated to the divine couple - Parvati and Shiva. The Greco-Roman mathematician, astronomer, geographer, astrologer and poet, Ptolemy described the temple, its location and the surrounding islands in his ‘Nagadibois’ in the 1st century CE, whilst a 12th century inscription from the reign of King Parakramabahu refers to the temple and the pilgrims from South India. In 1620 the original temple was looted and destroyed by the Portuguese, the current structure was rebuilt and re-established between 1720-1790. The Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Temple is one of the most famous testaments of the ornate vibrancy of the Dravidian architectural style in Sri Lanka. It is said that an estimate of 10,000 sculptures adorn the kovil from the inside out. 

 Despite not being a Hindu, I could not help but feel a sense of awe as I stood before the kovil’s entrance and gazed up at the hundreds of faces looking down at me. Something about this place has been drawing visitors for centuries, be they Hindu or otherwise. Myth, legend, faith and history meet here at this site. It is sacred not merely because of its religious significance, but because it is proof that the rich, diverse and breath-taking culture of Sri Lanka has lasted longer than any of the great empires.

Next on the list was the famed Jaffna Fort. A place over which many an army has clashed since its construction four centuries ago in 1618. Built by the Portuguese, the original fort was built in the shape of a pentagon, but was later expanded by the Dutch and the British. Looking at pictures taken from above, I noticed that the fort takes the form of a flower carved into the landscape. A four-hundred-year old stone blossom. Surrounded by a moat and guarded by tall stone walls that have stood the ultimate test of time, the fort retains certain parts of its Portuguese DNA like the entrance, which was later renovated by the Dutch in 1680.  During the Portuguese era, it was said that a large number of miracles took place, which were attributed to a statue of the Virgin Mary that lay within the fort’s church. This led to the fort being called Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora dos Milagres de Jafanapatão meaning the Fortress of Our Lady of Miracles of Jafanapatão. All that remains of any kind of church are the large white stones that have been meticulously gathered in the court yard and lie in wait to be restored to their original form. What became of the mysterious and miraculous statue is unknown, it was probably lost during one of the many sieges or perhaps the Portuguese took it with them when the fort was taken over by the Dutch. Many of the structures that stood within the ramparts of the fort are in ruins today, no thanks to the LTTE who destroyed many key features to prevent the Sri Lankan Army from gaining possession of the strategic bastion. However, the mighty walls of the structure still stand true and strong, and standing on the ramparts one is subject to an absolutely splendid view of the Jaffna town on one side and the unending ocean on the other. The Jaffna Fort is an epitome of steadfast faith and a national testament of the unbreakable spirit of the people of the country, especially those of the peninsula in which it is situated.

An Aerial View of the Jaffna Fort (Source: Lakpura LLC)


No trip to Jaffna is ever complete without a trip to the bustling Jaffna market, where it smells of either ripe mangoes or mouthwatering sweet meats. The prices are cheap if you know which shop to visit of course, and fortunately for us our guides knew exactly where to go.

In Jaffna town is the famous Sri Naga Vihara. Recently renovated by the Sri Lankan Army after the conclusion of the Civil War, the vihara itself is over two thousand years old, having been built during the reign of King Devanampiya Tissa. When Theri Sangamitta arrived at Dambakolapatuna with the sapling of the sacred Bo tree, some of the Naga tribesmen who lived in Jaffna at the time, asked the king to allow the sapling to be kept amongst their tribe for a week before it was taken to Anuradhapura. The king graciously granted his permission and the site where the revered infant tree rested became the Sri Naga Vihara. Today, the vihara and its premises are surrounded by the hustle and bustle of the Jaffna town, and yet upon entering one is greeted by a clean, white and peaceful environment, as if to this day the sanctification the site gained all those centuries ago still lingers in its atmosphere.

As the afternoon wore on we headed to Nallur, the old capital of the kings of Jaffna. No visit to the city is complete without a visit to the famed Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil. Much like the Temple of Jerusalem, the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil has been built, destroyed and rebuilt ever since the very first structure of that name was built during the 13th Century by Buwanika Bahu, a minister of the king of Kotte. The site is now the location of St James’ Church. The third Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil was built by Prince Sapumal (Sapumal Kumaraya), who ruled Jaffna at the time on behalf of his father, Parakramabahu VI. Fancy that, a Buddhist prince constructing a place of worship for Hindus. As we all know Prince Sapumal went on to rule Sri Lanka as Bhuvanaikabahu VI (1470-1478).

However, the third kovil was destroyed in 1624 by Filipe de Oliveira, a Portuguese colonial. The Dutch proved more co-operative, and in 1734 the fourth and present kovil was constructed by Don Juan Ragunatha Maapaana Mudaliyar, whose descendants continued to serve as its custodians. The Mudaliyar family is responsible for most of the additions and renovations that the kovil has undergone over the past centuries. Today, decked in red and gold, the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple is the largest Hindu place of worship in the country. With four gopurams, six bell towers and fortified walls, the kovil appears more as a citadel. The kovil was one of the sites of tragedy during the Civil War, when the LTTE committed the dastardly and sacrilegious deed of opening fire at soldiers of the Sri Lanka Army from within the sacred walls of the temple itself. Though the blood of brave men once stained its premises, the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil is once more a place of holiness and tranquility visited by people of many faiths and cultures.

The Entrance of the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil (Source: Wikipedia)


Also, in Nallur is the Archeological Museum of Jaffna, which houses a rare collection of ancient Buddhist and Hindu artifacts as well as a number of relics left behind by the colonists. One of these is an enormous portrait of Queen Victoria that was recovered from the Jaffna Fort. However, vivid images of animal sacrifice served to ruin that experience for me. Even now as I write, the images of brutality linger in the forefront of my mind, thus I will not go into any more detail, than to say that though the museum is on a majority of the lists of must-see places in Jaffna, one could most certainly do without the experience.

 After getting a bit lost, we finally found ourselves in Gurunagar, the home of the seat of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Jaffna - St. Mary's Cathedral. The cathedral is a large building lacking the grandeur and decoration that one usually expects of a structure of its rank, but otherwise stands solid and firm, the embodiment of the faith of the people of its diocese. It is said that the cathedral is in fact built over the remains of a martyr, the son of Cankili I, King of Jaffna. As the story goes, the king was furious when he learned that the prince had converted to Catholicism and ordered his execution. The ashes of the prince were buried at the spot of his execution and a small chapel (or rather a small thatched house of worship) was built over his grave. This chapel later became a part of the foundation of the present cathedral, which was built between 1789 – 1794. However, the growing number of Catholics in the region made it necessary to construct a new, much larger cathedral, which took place between 1939 - 1975. 

St. Mary's Cathedral (Source: Inspirock)



Monday 18 May 2020

For Our Soldier





For Our Soldier 

- Dedicated to all veterans and their families


Today’s the day 
We’ve all been waiting
There’s so much to say
So many hearts racing

Welcome home son
We’re so proud of you brother
I’ve waited so long love
We have you to ourselves now father                                                 

The Almighty has brought you home
Bruised and scarred but pure and whole
It’s been a long hard road
We’ve seen the years take their toll

You’ve bravely served our country
From East to West and North to South
And been declared the victor
Having looked inside War’s ugly mouth.

You’ve inspired your men
Leading from the front
Of bullets, shrapnel and mines
You’ve often taken the brunt

For your fallen boys
We’ve seen you mourn
For the tragedy of lost lives
You’ve felt you must atone

We’ve watched you rise 
And seen you fall
We still remember the times
We waited anxiously for your call

But now you’re home with us
We don’t plan to let you go
As always we will love and support you
By your side we will face any foe

A grateful nation salutes you
To them you’re a soldier no more
But our brave warrior you will always be
The depth of our pride and joy you’ll never know

                                                                                                                 By Stephanie Nugara

Saturday 16 May 2020

Days among the Palmyras - Chapter 1

The Palmyra Palms of the North (Source: Chasing Light)

Traveling to Jaffna on the inter-city express may not be the smoothest journey, but it is far less stressful and time-consuming than any other means of transportation. I found the idea of a 7-hour journey rather daunting, but it’s nothing a good book and company cannot remedy. Not to mention the scenic beauty of the landscape on either side of the track.

Having never been further north than Anuradhapura before, I found myself drawn to the window as the train moved beyond the ancient capital. The scenery gradually morphed from lush greenery and rolling hills to open plains decorated with tall Palmyra trees.

Approaching Vavuniya, the gateway to the north, the indisputable difference in setting and atmosphere, in comparison to that of the western towns is palpable.

As a child Jaffna has always been a land of sad stories, a foreign place we would probably never get to see. Now as we neared this forbidden kingdom, I found myself thinking about the lives lost in the Civil War. Looking out at the lush, open, water-filled landscape of the Elephant Pass Causeway I was reminded of those whose remains still lie hidden around this thin stretch of land. It was with a sense of excitement and almost-reverence that I watched the sign come into view at the Jaffna train station.

The Elephant Pass War Memorial (Source: Jaffna Tours)


Archeological excavations conducted in the early 20
th century uncovered evidence, which suggests that the northern part of Sri Lanka was a flourishing settlement dating back to 2000 BCE, well before the birth of Vijaya. This was the time the Bronze Age began in China, when the ancestors of the Latins arrived in Italy, when Stonehenge was completed and glass appeared for the first time. It would seem that civilization in Jaffna is as old as that of Mantua and just as rich in history, politics and romance. I for one, couldn’t wait to explore this ancient and once forbidden part of our country.

Run by the Sri Lankan Army, the Thal Sevana resort in Kankesanthurai is one of the better hotels in Jaffna. Embracing the northern coast and nestled snuggly on a quiet beach, the resort is the ideal location to enjoy the ocean for all its beauty, unhindered by the smell and sight of pollution that one often finds in Colombo. Blending with the natural environment of the beach, the structure of Thal Sevana combines true Sri Lankan hospitality with modern facilities and accommodation.

 Unable to resist the urge to explore we visited the well-known Nilavarai Well. A natural underground water well, which according to some, is tied to the legend of Rama, it was said to be bottomless until a recent investigation carried out by the Sri Lanka Navy revealed the well’s depth to be 52.5 meters. The awesome thing about the Nilavarai Well is that its water never depletes. Connected to a mysterious underground source of water, the well has never run dry, even during the harshest of droughts, making it an almost-reverent spot to the locals, especially the farmers of the neighboring fields. 

 

                                                     Nilavarai Well (Source: Jaffna Wikipedia)

On the way to Chunnakam to visit the Kadururgoda Raja Maha Vihara, we made an interesting discovery. It seems that during this particular time of the year showers in Jaffna, though somewhat frequent, do not last more than 10-15 minutes. It was raining quite steadily when we got to the temple premises. The history of Kadurugoda dates back to the Anuradhapura period. When during the reign of King Devanampiya Tissa, the Theri Sangamitta arrived in Dambakolapatuna with a sapling of the sacred Bo tree, Kadurugoda was one of the places she is believed to have visited. But the stupas in the small field at Kadurugoda, covered in time and moss, tell a tale of deception and murder. 

During the reign of King Sangili in the 16th century, sixty Arhat Bhikkus fled the king’s persecution. On their way to India they stopped at Kadurugoda and received alms from the locals. Among the food donated was a poisoned mushroom curry, which caused the demise of all sixty Bhikkus. Of the sixty stupas built to enshrine the remains of the Bhikkus, only twenty or so remain intact. Sheltering beneath one of the tall trees that stand like silent sentinels, I couldn’t help but wonder if perhaps the weather gods opened the heavens to shed a few tears in memory of the tragedy that occurred all those years ago.

The Stupas at the Kadurugoda Raja Maha Vihara (Source:Mapio.net)

Next on the list was Dambakolapatuna, where King Devanampiya Tissa greeted Theri Sangamitta, and the story of the sacred Bo tree in Anuradhapura began. Thankfully, the rain had ceased and the sky was a clear blue that was slowly turning to an early sunset mauve. An enormous golden arch guards the entrance to one of the most historic sites in Sri Lanka. From the entrance the path leads to a pure white stupa, its kotha proudly reaching to the heavens. The surrounding garden is the very epitome of peace and tranquility; the only sounds coming from the ocean and the birds. A replica of the ship that brought Sangamitta to Sri Lanka is anchored in a little lake nearby, whilst a descendant of the sacred Bo tree stands in the garden beside the stupa. Here where spirituality, history and nature blend in easy harmony, there is also a large bronze statue depicting Sangamitta in her magnificent ship and King Devanampiya Tissa standing in the sea with his arms raised in respect.  Theri Sangamitta and her brother Arhat Mahinda helped King Devanampiya Tissa launch a wave of religious awakening, Buddhism, which counts so many millions of followers to this very day. But for Theri Sangamitta her mission in Sri Lanka began when she set foot on the golden beach of Dambakolapatuna.

The Stupa at Dambakolapatuna (Source: Jaffna Tours)

Driving back from Dambakolapatuna we stopped at the shrine of Our Lady of Lourdes in Mathagal.  A large rock hewn grotto with its back to the sea, surrounded by carefully detailed statues of the Way of the Cross, the shrine is the ideal location for quiet outdoor prayer. However, what caught my eye was a pillar that stood a little way out to sea. On this pillar stood a statue of the Holy Mother; watching over the ocean unmoved by the waves that thrashed at her feet. It reminded me of a popular hymn: “Hail Queen of Heaven, the Ocean Star, guide of the wanderer here below”. I believe that many a fisherman and sailor has been saved from the sea by her loving guidance and protection.

Later, our guides took us to a mysterious pool, which according to legend holds amazing powers of fertility. The blackened ruin of a colonial structure marks the turn in the road and there I met a friendly little puppy who ignored a biscuit for a little tenderness and attention. The pool was further down the road. The first thing I noticed when we got to the location was a small colorful shrine guarded by strange life-size statues of a man and woman with fish heads in place of human ones. According to the legend, the couple had been cursed with infertility and hideous faces, but the magical water of the pool cleansed them and lifted the spell. The pool itself is a large square carved into the ground, surrounded by a frame of stone and overlooking the sea. However, though its waters may have held healing powers in ancient times, I strongly suspect that whoever bathed in the pool today would walk out of it with more ailments than they had when they stepped in. 


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