Sign Post at Point Pedro (Source: Pintrest)
Our last morning in Jaffna saw us up bright and early on our
way to Point Pedro. I think it’s fair to say that traffic in Jaffna is far more
civilized than the chaos we encounter on the roads of Colombo on a daily basis.
The town of Point of Pedro was quiet and peaceful, with just a few people out
and about their morning business. When we got to the precise spot known as
Point Pedro, the first thing that caught our attention were the remains of a
large house overlooking the sea. The tell-tale black scorch marks that coated what
remained of the walls made it very clear as to what had caused the ruination,
making it just another victim of the Civil War. With the sea thrashing at its
base the ruined house looked like an image brought to life from a novel. The
view from Point Pedro is one of the infinite ocean. Grey and wild it brought to
mind James Reeve’s poem - “The sea is a
hungry dog, giant and grey. He rolls on the beach all day. With his clashing
teeth and shaggy jaws hour upon hour he gnaws the rumbling, tumbling stones, and
‘Bones, bones, bones, bones!’ The giant sea-dog moans, licking his greasy
paws.”
At Sakkottai, the northernmost tip
of the island, we were in time to watch the fisherman haul in their nets. There
is a stone sign at the very tip of the island painted with the national flag. At the base
of this small structure, sitting straight and dignified as if he knew the
significance of his location, was a noble hound. It was an amusing sight to
see, as he seemed very protective of his spot and all the other animals in the
vicinity were giving him his space.
The Noble Hound that Guards Sri Lanka (Source: Author)
From Sakkottai our guides took us to a
rambling lighthouse nearby. Built in 1916, the 31-meter-high pillar no longer
serves its original purpose and is guarded by the Sri Lanka Navy. The officers
who greeted us were most courteous and warned us not to enter the lighthouse as
the inner workings of the building are in ruins. The only occupants it now
boasts are pigeons and crows. The lighthouse was one of the few structures that
survived the 2004 tsunami, which laid waste to much of Point Pedro. As a
tribute to its resilience, the point to which the water level rose is marked
half way up the century-old pillar.
Ever seen a picture of a deserted
little beach with a single coconut tree in the center? I remember seeing quite
a few such images in cartoons and a couple of movies. I've even drawn such
images as a child, but never did I think I would actually stand in such a
scene, and I definitely would never have imagined the quietness and peace of
such a place. It’s funny how an environment that’s almost empty could be so
beautiful. But the golden sand, the fresh green of the tree, and the clear blue
of the sea and sky emit a gentle beauty that no master-artist could ever
capture.
Must-See Beach at Point Pedro (Source: Clickin Moms)
A couple of hours later we were on
the train back to Colombo. Watching the scenery change once again, I began to
reflect on the places I’d visited, the things I’d seen and the people I’d met.
Jaffna is most definitely another world in comparison to any other part of the
island. There is irony in the fact that a place, which was a battleground
almost ten years ago should be an ideal place for a fascinating holiday. True,
there are wounds yet to be healed and scars that will perhaps linger forever,
but the people of this peninsula have moved on, looking forward to a brighter
future than dwelling on a bloody and dismal past. No longer is Jaffna a
forbidden kingdom, dangerous and unpredictable, but a land of hope far away
from the chaos and drama of Colombo. The ruins that lie scattered throughout
the north are reminders of what Sri Lanka has survived, while the ancient
buildings that have stood for thousands of years are testaments of the past glories
of our country. This land of Palmyra trees, battered and bruised, where the
blood of the brave runs deep within its earth, is a place where the past meets
the present and all religions flourish in quiet harmony. Thus, in quiet
reflection I watched as the train took us further and further away.
