She Spies Whose Stories Inspired Must-Watch Movies

 

The second World War saw the rise of female spies. Many brave women went above and beyond the call of duty to bring down the Third Reich; they endured grueling training, life-threatening situations, betrayal, prison and torture, while some even made the ultimate sacrifice in order to protect the cause and bring an end to Nazism. Enemy of the Reich follows the story of a quiet, unassuming yet determined young woman who exceeded all expectations to give the Allied forces a chance at victory. The White Mouse tells the tale of a real-life version of Marvel’s Black Widow. Bold, elusive and badass, she was among the Gestapo’s most wanted, but that didn’t stop her from playing a key role in the French resistance. There is also an Australian mini-series inspired by her exploits. 

Noor Inayat Khan – The Muslim Girl Who Defied the Nazis

                                                                                                                       (Source - ThoughtCo)

A descendant of Indian nobility, Noor Inayat Khan was a British spy and agent of the Special Operations Executive during World War II. She was the first female wireless operator sent from Britain to aid the French Resistance, following the German occupation of France. 

When the second World War broke out, Noor joined the Women's Auxiliary Air Force (WAAF) and was sent to be trained as a wireless operator. She was later recruited to join the Special Operations Executive where she received training to be a wireless operator in occupied and hostile territory. 

Noor's first mission was also to be her last. The job of an operator was to maintain a connection between the circuit in the field and London. Without this connection it was almost impossible for any resistance strategy to be coordinated, but the operators were highly vulnerable to detection, which kept on improving as the war progressed. 

Despite the doubts of her fellow agents and other perceived shortcomings, Noor's fluent French and her competency in wireless operation made her an ideal candidate for service in occupied France. However, Noor was eventually betrayed, arrested and interrogated at the SD Headquarters in Paris. After two escape attempts, Noor was taken to Germany and kept shackled in solitary confinement at Pforzheim.

After the war, the prison director later testified that despite the appalling treatment she received, Noor remained uncooperative and continued to refuse to give any information on her work or her fellow operatives. She was transferred to Dachau concentration camp with fellow agents Yolande Beekman, Madeleine Damerment and Eliane Plewman. At dawn on the 13th of September, Noor Inayat Khan and the other three women were executed.

For her bravery and dedication, Noor was posthumously awarded the George Cross for her service in the SOE, the highest civilian decoration in the United Kingdom.

"I wish some Indians would win high military distinction in this war. If one or two could do something in the Allied service, which was very brave and which everybody admired it would help to make a bridge between the English people and the Indians." 

Nancy Wake – The White Mouse

(Source - Defense Media Network)

Nancy Wake was a nurse and journalist. When the second World War began, she was living in France with her husband, Henri Fiocca, and worked as an ambulance driver. After the fall of France, she became a part of the escape network of Captain Ian Garrow, which was known as the Pat O’Leary Line, where she helped Allied airmen evade capture and escape to Spain. Despite the Gestapo tapping her telephone and intercepting her mail, Nancy continued to elude capture. This uncanny ability earned her the nickname – “White Mouse” by the Gestapo. 

However, the network was eventually betrayed and Nancy fled to Britain, while her husband stayed behind. In Britain, Nancy joined the Special Operations Executive and received training in several programs. 

Nancy later returned to France as a member of a three-person SOE team code named “Freelance”. Their mission was to serve as liaisons between the SOE and several Marquis groups in the Auvergne region. She participated in a battle between the Marquis and a large German force in June 1944. In the aftermath of the battle, which saw the resistant fighters retreat before the large German attack, Nancy rode a borrowed bicycle to Chateauroux, found a radio there updated London on the situation and bicycled back to Saint-Santin, traveling 500 kilometers (310 mi) in 72 hours. 

After the battle, the Freelance team joined the resistance group of Henri Tardivat. The group carried out a series of attacks on enemy convoys, and at one point fought off an attack on their camp by the Germans. However, Nancy’s main task was to organize the reception and distribution of arms and material for the resistance groups, which were regularly parachuted into Allier. Nancy also participated in the raid that destroyed one of the Gestapo headquarters in France.

The Allied victory was bitter-sweet to Nancy, for she learned that her husband whom she had not seen or heard from for three years had been captured, tortured and executed by the Gestapo following her escape from France in 1942. 

For her services Nancy received the George Medal from the United Kingdom, the Medal of Freedom from the United States and the Légion d'honneur from France, as well as medals from Australia and New Zealand. She published her autobiography in 1985, which was titled, ‘The White Mouse’.  Nancy passed away on the 7th of August 2011, in London, 23 day before her 99th birthday. 

 

Read More

Motherhood: Getting Through the 1st Trimester

 

    Source: What To Expect Forums

On the 22nd of October last year, my gynecologist confirmed what my husband and I had suspected for a few days. I was 5 weeks pregnant!

To say that the news was unexpected would be a definite understatement. I had such a hard time wrapping my head around it that it wasn’t until I got the results of the HCG (Human Chorionic Gonadotropin) test, which showed the fetus’ development, that I finally allowed the news to sink in. 

We shared the news with our immediate family and a few close friends that weekend, but decided to wait until we’d passed the 3 month point to share the news with the rest of our family and friends.

I am now 19 weeks pregnant and have started to feel the teeny tiny movements of my growing son or daughter. (I don’t plan to know the gender until he or she is born).

My reasons for adding this category to my blog are - 

1. Over the past 4 months, I came to notice that there weren’t many blogs or websites by Sri Lankan moms for Sri Lankan moms.

2. As this is my first pregnancy, I am no expert in the matter, but I hope to share with you all as much about my new journey as possible as well as some tips and remedies that have helped me deal with some of the changes and challenges that come with pregnancy. A lot of these are based on the advice I myself receive from my mom (an experienced nurse), gynecologist, family, friends and midwife. 

I hope that this new addition will be helpful to my readers. To begin with, here are a few of the symptoms I went through during my thankfully-completed first trimester, and some of the tips and remedies that helped me deal with the worst of it.

• Nausea – Unlike most moms-to-be, I suffered from night sickness rather than morning sickness (not that the mornings were so great either). While a friend recommended lime, I found that oranges worked better for me. I even began keeping a container of orange peels in my freezer, which I would put into boiling water for inhalations. Some recommend sucking on ice cubes or lollipops, but neither of these worked for me. Hopefully, they work for some of my readers.

Another thing that helped me was plain tea with a few tiny pieces of ginger at the bottom of the cup. The scent and subtle taste of the ginger mixed with the tea always gave me a tremendous feeling of relief from the nausea. My husband would make it for me on those really rough nights. You do need to be mindful that there is a limit as to the amount of ginger an expectant mom is supposed to intake. (Though the precise amount may differ depending on the source) I myself never ate any of the pieces of ginger and my midwife recommended that I have my “special tea” just a few times a week. 

• Constant bad taste – Not all women suffer from this, and the frequency and precise taste differs from woman to woman. For me, my mouth constantly tasted like I hadn’t brushed my teeth, which mind you I did. There were times that this and the nausea went hand in hand. I couldn’t even drink water without becoming nauseous. Throughout the first trimester I kept myself hydrated on liquids like Jeevani, thambili, tea, ginger beer and fruit juices (mostly orange), while I used whatever spicy or sweet foods, I could get my hands on to keep the awful taste away. 

• Heartburn – The remedy for this came straight from my mom and it worked every single time I got that horrible burning sensation in my chest. You need to start by slowly drinking a glass of water or milk. After a little while you can snack on a few biscuits. I’ve found that cream crackers work best for me, but to each her own. 

• Sudden bouts of fatigue and light headedness – There really is no remedy for the waves of exhaustion that may strike when you least expect it. At first, I would try to push through and keep working, but I’d just end up feeling almost out of breath as if I’d run a relay. So, I began to take small breaks whenever I started feeling tired and it really helped stave off the worst. 

I know it may seem strange and disconcerting to feel so tired and or light headed when all you’re doing is your usual house or office work. But keep in mind that your body is working differently now in order to nurture and grow that little life inside you. 

    Source: Healthline

I also heartily recommend investing in a bottle of Bio-oil to prevent stretch marks. I prefer Bio-oil because of its smell and the fact that its texture very different from usual body oils, which are often runny or sticky. Plus, it’s long lasting.

Read More

Leading Historical Ladies You Probably Didn’t Know About

 Chapter 1. To Hell with Boundaries

This article recounts the tales of two women you’ve probably not heard about before. One born royal and the other a concubine, both living in times when being a woman was considered a weakness, and women were seen as inferior beings to be used and controlled. These two badass ladies defied the traditions and politics of their respective times to rise to the very top, serve their countries and make two very large marks in history. Determined, bold and clever, Tamar dealt with greedy nobles, corrupt politicians, a traitorous husband and foreign enemies to bring about Georgia’s golden age. Wu Zetian, the intelligent, cunning and decisive concubine, ruthlessly crushed all opposition in her rise to power, and while many view her story with mixed feelings, there is no doubt that she was an effective ruler who brought prosperity, learning and expansion to China.

 The Female King - Tamar the Great of Georgia

(Source: Georgianjournal.ge)

Well before Isabella of Castille or Elizabeth I of England showed Europe what a woman ruling in her own right could do, there was Tamar. Often called Tamar the Great, she brought Georgia to the peak of its power and glory.

 A member of the Bagratoni dynasty, Tamar faced significant opposition from the aristocracy when she ascended the throne of Georgia in 1184, as the country’s first Queen Regnant. Wishing to be free of the repressive policies of Tamar’s father and utilize her gender, which they saw as a weakness, for their own benefit, the Georgian aristocracy presented a strong opposition against Tamar’s rule. In the early years of her reign, the young queen was forced to make significant concessions to the aristocracy and was even pressured into dismissing her father’s appointees who had helped the old king maintain strict control over the nobility. A husband was chosen for her – Yuri Bogolyubsky, who proved himself to be an incompetent drunkard among other things. But over the years, Tamar was becoming more and more assertive of her rights as Queen Regnant, and had begun to build and expand a power base of her own by cleverly elevating those most loyal and able, be they noble, clerical or commoner. 

Two years into her marriage, Tamar divorced Yuri on the grounds of drunkenness and sodomy. However, Yuri did not go quietly. Aided by members of the aristocracy who wished to check Tamar’s growing, power he attempted two coups. Both of which failed and he was forced into obscurity. Soon, Tamar had by various means neutralized those of the aristocracy who had opposed her. Tamar’s next husband was of her own choosing. David Soslan was an able commander, and would become Tamar’s most trusted and ardent supporter. With David as the leader of her armies, Tamar sought to expand the Georgian empire further than ever before. Two of the most significant battles of Tamar’s reign were at Shamkori (1195) and Basiani (1202). Using the decline of the hostile Seljuq Turks, Tamar adopted an energetic foreign policy, the majority of which relied on the powerful military elite. Building upon the successes of her predecessors, Tamar succeeded in consolidating an empire, which dominated the Caucasus. She also played a crucial role in the formation of the Empire of Trebizond, which was made up of the northeastern corner of Anatolia and southern Crimea. 

The Georgian Empire during Tamar's reign (Source: Culture Trip)

It was during Tamar’s rule that the principle of Georgian architecture underwent a significant change, this can be seen in the several large-scale domed cathedrals that were built during her reign. In art and architecture, the Byzantine-inspired presentation of royal power saw several modifications due to Tamar’s unique and unprecedented role as a female ruler (in her own right). 

In medieval Georgian sources, Tamar is known as “Mepe” (king) and as such, is sometimes called King Tamar, rather than Queen. Her line continued through her son and daughter, both of whom ruled Georgia after her. But none of her successors ever measured up to the greatness of Tamar. The empire she worked so hard to build would crumble a mere twenty years after her death, but her legacy lives on to this very day, not only in Georgia, but the rest of the world as well. Today, despite not being one of the most universally well-known historical figures, Tamar the Great joins the ranks of the greatest rulers in history, as a bold, clever and dedicated leader, who showed the world that a queen could achieve just as much greatness as any king. The epitome of a leading lady, she was canonized as the Holy Righteous Queen Tamar by the Georgian Orthodox Church and is also a saint of the Antiochian Orthodox Church.

 Concubine to Conqueror - Wu Zetian

(Source: Pintrest)

Some consider her a villainous tyrant, others an effective ruler. Whatever one may believe, there is no dispute to the fact that Wu Zetian made her mark in history and played a key role in the development of her country. 

Wu hailed from a wealthy family and her father ensured that she received a much more extensive education than what was required for women of that time. Beginning as a concubine of Emperor Taizong of the Tang dynasty, Wu rose to become the de facto ruler of China, first through her husband Emperor Gaozong, and then through her sons the Emperors Ruizong and Zhongzong. She subsequently became Empress Regnant and founder of the Zhou dynasty, ruling China with an iron fist from 690-705.

Following the death of Emperor Taizong, Wu became a consort of the late emperor’s son and successor, Emperor Gaozong. Charismatic and well-educated, she enjoyed the absolute interest of her husband, resulting in her becoming the leading lady of the emperor’s court. Far more decisive and proactive than her husband, she was the most powerful and influential woman at court during a period when the Tang dynasty was at the zenith of its power, and as such, she enjoyed honors and privileges never enjoyed by any other Chinese Empress in history. Unlike any other woman before or after her, Wu was present whenever the emperor held court and even held court independently on occasions when the emperor was ill. She was even given charge of the imperial seal, which meant that no document or order could receive validity without her knowledge and permission.  

When her baby daughter died in 654, Wu accused the empress at the time, Empress Wang of murdering her child. What really killed the baby girl is unknown, however history gives us three primary possibilities. 

1. According to folklore, Wu is portrayed as a power-hungry woman who murdered her own child to implicate Wang. 

2. The childless Wang did murder the Wu’s child out of jealousy.

3. The girl died of asphyxiation or crib death, likely brought about by the poor ventilation systems of the time.

Wu’s accusation marked the first step in the downfall of Empress Wang, who in 655 was replaced as empress by Wu. Wang and another consort named Xiao were the first victims to be killed by order of Empress Wu. Chancellors, officials, in-laws, step-sons, nephews, and even her own sons, grandsons and granddaughters were not safe from Wu, if they aroused her suspicion or invoked her disfavor. 

After the death of her husband, her youngest son became emperor under the temple name Ruizong. However, Wu was the true ruler of the country in substance and appearance. The new emperor was kept under her strict control. No officials were allowed to see the emperor without her permission and neither was the emperor allowed to make any decisions when it came to matters of state. In 690 however, Wu had Emperor Ruizong relinquish the throne to her. Thus, the Zhou dynasty was born with Wu as imperial ruler. 

Wu consolidated her power through her influence at court, a system of spies and her secret police force, which she used to eliminate any of her real, potential or perceived enemies by means of execution, forced suicide, murder, demotion or exile. 

However, despite her bloody rise to power, Wu’s political and military leadership ensured the major expansion of the Chinese empire, extending well beyond its previous borders and deep into Central Asia. Wu used both the military and diplomacy to enhance her international position.

Wu’s reign also saw Taoism, Buddhism, education and literature receive an unprecedented extent of state support. Her court was a center of literary creativity. The Chinese people were to a great extent satisfied with her rule as apart from court intrigue and corruption, the administration was run well and the economic situation brought about a rise in living standards. 

"To the horror of traditional Chinese historians, all members of the shih class, the continued success of the T'ang was in large measure due to an ex-concubine who finally usurped the throne itself...Though she was ruthless towards her enemies, the period of her ascendency was a good one for China. Government was sound, no rebellions occurred, abuses in the army and administration were stamped out and Korea was annexed, an achievement no previous Chinese had ever managed." - Yong Yap Cotterell and Arthur Cotterell.

Wu Zetian's blank stele at the Qianling Mausoleum (Source: China Tours)

Read More

The Streetwalker

                                                   

(Source: thegreencities.com)

 

The Streetwalker

 

With blood red lips and stiletto heels,

She strolls about the road,                  

Tossing her head at the girls across the street.

She’s worth more than that entire load.

 

Ten years and more she’s been at this work.

She’s fought and clawed and even bled,

To win this little corner of hers,

To keep her safe and her kid fed.

 

They don’t like her and she knows it,

Those girls on the other side,

They’re jealous of her and want to be her.

If only they’d listen, but they won’t. She knows, she’s tried.

 

She’s tried to tell them of the first time,

She cried herself to sleep that night.

Tried to tell them of her dear friend, Molly,

Her customer choked her a little too tight.

 

These young ones, they just don’t know yet.

They’re young and clueless, and some not very smart,

Looking for a little fun and adventure,

They just don’t get the horrors that come with the part.

 

She laughs to herself; she called them “young ones”,

 But she’s not that much older,

Life has made her a cynical old woman,

And every job leaves her that much colder.

 

She’s used to the disdain of the passersby.

They think she doesn’t have a clue.

Just the other day the lady in the shop ‘round the corner said:

“We don’t serve the likes of you!”

 

She was fourteen when they took her,

Sixteen when they dumped her on the street,

With a weak baby wailing in her arms,

She did the only thing she could to get her kid something to eat.

                                           - Society destroys and then condemns - 

 

                                                                                                                  By Stephanie Nugara

Read More

Days Among the Palmyras - Chapter 3

Sign Post at Point Pedro (Source: Pintrest)

Our last morning in Jaffna saw us up bright and early on our way to Point Pedro. I think it’s fair to say that traffic in Jaffna is far more civilized than the chaos we encounter on the roads of Colombo on a daily basis. The town of Point of Pedro was quiet and peaceful, with just a few people out and about their morning business. When we got to the precise spot known as Point Pedro, the first thing that caught our attention were the remains of a large house overlooking the sea. The tell-tale black scorch marks that coated what remained of the walls made it very clear as to what had caused the ruination, making it just another victim of the Civil War. With the sea thrashing at its base the ruined house looked like an image brought to life from a novel. The view from Point Pedro is one of the infinite ocean. Grey and wild it brought to mind James Reeve’s poem - “The sea is a hungry dog, giant and grey. He rolls on the beach all day. With his clashing teeth and shaggy jaws hour upon hour he gnaws the rumbling, tumbling stones, and ‘Bones, bones, bones, bones!’ The giant sea-dog moans, licking his greasy paws.”

At Sakkottai, the northernmost tip of the island, we were in time to watch the fisherman haul in their nets. There is a stone sign at the very tip of the island painted with the national flag. At the base of this small structure, sitting straight and dignified as if he knew the significance of his location, was a noble hound. It was an amusing sight to see, as he seemed very protective of his spot and all the other animals in the vicinity were giving him his space. 

The Noble Hound that Guards Sri Lanka (Source: Author)

From Sakkottai our guides took us to a rambling lighthouse nearby. Built in 1916, the 31-meter-high pillar no longer serves its original purpose and is guarded by the Sri Lanka Navy. The officers who greeted us were most courteous and warned us not to enter the lighthouse as the inner workings of the building are in ruins. The only occupants it now boasts are pigeons and crows. The lighthouse was one of the few structures that survived the 2004 tsunami, which laid waste to much of Point Pedro. As a tribute to its resilience, the point to which the water level rose is marked half way up the century-old pillar.

Ever seen a picture of a deserted little beach with a single coconut tree in the center? I remember seeing quite a few such images in cartoons and a couple of movies. I've even drawn such images as a child, but never did I think I would actually stand in such a scene, and I definitely would never have imagined the quietness and peace of such a place. It’s funny how an environment that’s almost empty could be so beautiful. But the golden sand, the fresh green of the tree, and the clear blue of the sea and sky emit a gentle beauty that no master-artist could ever capture.

Must-See Beach at Point Pedro (Source: Clickin Moms)

A couple of hours later we were on the train back to Colombo. Watching the scenery change once again, I began to reflect on the places I’d visited, the things I’d seen and the people I’d met. Jaffna is most definitely another world in comparison to any other part of the island. There is irony in the fact that a place, which was a battleground almost ten years ago should be an ideal place for a fascinating holiday. True, there are wounds yet to be healed and scars that will perhaps linger forever, but the people of this peninsula have moved on, looking forward to a brighter future than dwelling on a bloody and dismal past. No longer is Jaffna a forbidden kingdom, dangerous and unpredictable, but a land of hope far away from the chaos and drama of Colombo. The ruins that lie scattered throughout the north are reminders of what Sri Lanka has survived, while the ancient buildings that have stood for thousands of years are testaments of the past glories of our country. This land of Palmyra trees, battered and bruised, where the blood of the brave runs deep within its earth, is a place where the past meets the present and all religions flourish in quiet harmony. Thus, in quiet reflection I watched as the train took us further and further away.

Read More

Days Among the Palmyras - Chapter 2

Morning came bright and windy as we set off on our way to Nagadeepa the next day. As we travelled towards the Jaffna Pannai Bridge, which joins the mainland and the island of Kayts, the road took us through some of the cities that make up the peninsula. Some of the now abandoned buildings and houses in these towns still bear the scars of war, a few have even been reduced to nothing but blackened shells, that stand as testament to the suffering and loss the people of Jaffna have overcome. Thin strips of road with the ocean on either side; connect each island with the other. From Kayts we travelled along the Valukkairaru-Punkudutivu-Kurikadduwan road to the island of Kurikadduwan. A series of boats ferry passengers between Kurikadduwan and Nagadeepa. 

Gazing at the island from the boat, the Naga Deepa Raja Ma ha Vihara and the Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Kovil stand side by side, greeting visitors, whatever their religion, together in perfect harmony. It’s a bit of a walk from the boat dock along the paved path to the Maha Vihara, and on a warm sunny day the distance can feel twice as long, but once you reach the welcoming shade of the vihara’s Bo tree you will find that a little sweat was worth it as you find yourself greeted by a large vivid statue of the Buddha and Mucilanda, the giant seven-headed cobra. 

The Naga Deepa Raja Maha Vihara is one of the sixteen sacred Buddhists sites in Sri Lanka and according to legend was visited by Gautama Buddha following his enlightenment. Despite the site being one of the Solosmasthana, we found ourselves to be the only group to visit the vihara at that time. According to legend the Buddha’s visit brought peace between two warring Naga kings, Chulodara and Mahodara who in turn built the Rajayathana Stupa that stands to this day in all its silvery glory. Famously reconstructed and re-developed by great kings like Devanampiya Tissa and Dutugemunu, the stupa once housed the gem-studded throne upon which the Buddha once sat and preached to the Nagas. The location of the legendary throne is lost to time, but the experience of standing on a site that has been a pilgrim and tourist destination for thousands of years is a treasure in its own way.

Behind the stupa stands the shrine room built in the traditional style. Perhaps most people would have found the enormous statues of the Buddha to be the main attractions of the room, however, I found myself more fascinated by the vibrant paintings that adorned every inch of the walls. Depicting scenes from history and legend, the frescoes have been painted in a more recent version of the customary Sinhalese style that has persevered through the ages. 

The Naga Deepa Raja Maha Vihara and the Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Kovil (Source: Author)

Seven hundred meters from the Buddhist Solosmasthana is one of the Shakti Peethas of the Hindu religion. Barely 10 minutes away, the Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Kovil dominates the landscape of the northern half of the island with its brilliantly colored gopurams (gateway towers) rising skywards. The tallest of these, the Raja Raja Gopuram reaches an impressive height of 108 feet, made up of statues of the many deities of Hinduism.

According to legend the temple was built by Lord Indra and is one of the 64 sites (shakti peethas) where parts of the dismembered body of Sati fell from Lord Shiva’s arms. From times unknown devotees have visited this sacred site, dedicated to the divine couple - Parvati and Shiva. The Greco-Roman mathematician, astronomer, geographer, astrologer and poet, Ptolemy described the temple, its location and the surrounding islands in his ‘Nagadibois’ in the 1^st century CE, whilst a 12^th century inscription from the reign of King Parakramabahu refers to the temple and the pilgrims from South India. In 1620 the original temple was looted and destroyed by the Portuguese, the current structure was rebuilt and re-established between 1720-1790. The Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Temple is one of the most famous testaments of the ornate vibrancy of the Dravidian architectural style in Sri Lanka. It is said that an estimate of 10,000 sculptures adorn the kovil from the inside out. 

 Despite not being a Hindu, I could not help but feel a sense of awe as I stood before the kovil’s entrance and gazed up at the hundreds of faces looking down at me. Something about this place has been drawing visitors for centuries, be they Hindu or otherwise. Myth, legend, faith and history meet here at this site. It is sacred not merely because of its religious significance, but because it is proof that the rich, diverse and breath-taking culture of Sri Lanka has lasted longer than any of the great empires.

Next on the list was the famed Jaffna Fort. A place over which many an army has clashed since its construction four centuries ago in 1618. Built by the Portuguese, the original fort was built in the shape of a pentagon, but was later expanded by the Dutch and the British. Looking at pictures taken from above, I noticed that the fort takes the form of a flower carved into the landscape. A four-hundred-year old stone blossom. Surrounded by a moat and guarded by tall stone walls that have stood the ultimate test of time, the fort retains certain parts of its Portuguese DNA like the entrance, which was later renovated by the Dutch in 1680.  During the Portuguese era, it was said that a large number of miracles took place, which were attributed to a statue of the Virgin Mary that lay within the fort’s church. This led to the fort being called Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora dos Milagres de Jafanapatão meaning the Fortress of Our Lady of Miracles of Jafanapatão. All that remains of any kind of church are the large white stones that have been meticulously gathered in the court yard and lie in wait to be restored to their original form. What became of the mysterious and miraculous statue is unknown, it was probably lost during one of the many sieges or perhaps the Portuguese took it with them when the fort was taken over by the Dutch. Many of the structures that stood within the ramparts of the fort are in ruins today, no thanks to the LTTE who destroyed many key features to prevent the Sri Lankan Army from gaining possession of the strategic bastion. However, the mighty walls of the structure still stand true and strong, and standing on the ramparts one is subject to an absolutely splendid view of the Jaffna town on one side and the unending ocean on the other. The Jaffna Fort is an epitome of steadfast faith and a national testament of the unbreakable spirit of the people of the country, especially those of the peninsula in which it is situated.

An Aerial View of the Jaffna Fort (Source: Lakpura LLC)

No trip to Jaffna is ever complete without a trip to the bustling Jaffna market, where it smells of either ripe mangoes or mouthwatering sweet meats. The prices are cheap if you know which shop to visit of course, and fortunately for us our guides knew exactly where to go.

In Jaffna town is the famous Sri Naga Vihara. Recently renovated by the Sri Lankan Army after the conclusion of the Civil War, the vihara itself is over two thousand years old, having been built during the reign of King Devanampiya Tissa. When Theri Sangamitta arrived at Dambakolapatuna with the sapling of the sacred Bo tree, some of the Naga tribesmen who lived in Jaffna at the time, asked the king to allow the sapling to be kept amongst their tribe for a week before it was taken to Anuradhapura. The king graciously granted his permission and the site where the revered infant tree rested became the Sri Naga Vihara. Today, the vihara and its premises are surrounded by the hustle and bustle of the Jaffna town, and yet upon entering one is greeted by a clean, white and peaceful environment, as if to this day the sanctification the site gained all those centuries ago still lingers in its atmosphere.

As the afternoon wore on we headed to Nallur, the old capital of the kings of Jaffna. No visit to the city is complete without a visit to the famed Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil. Much like the Temple of Jerusalem, the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil has been built, destroyed and rebuilt ever since the very first structure of that name was built during the 13^th Century by Buwanika Bahu, a minister of the king of Kotte. The site is now the location of St James’ Church. The third Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil was built by Prince Sapumal (Sapumal Kumaraya), who ruled Jaffna at the time on behalf of his father, Parakramabahu VI. Fancy that, a Buddhist prince constructing a place of worship for Hindus. As we all know Prince Sapumal went on to rule Sri Lanka as Bhuvanaikabahu VI (1470-1478).

However, the third kovil was destroyed in 1624 by Filipe de Oliveira, a Portuguese colonial. The Dutch proved more co-operative, and in 1734 the fourth and present kovil was constructed by Don Juan Ragunatha Maapaana Mudaliyar, whose descendants continued to serve as its custodians. The Mudaliyar family is responsible for most of the additions and renovations that the kovil has undergone over the past centuries. Today, decked in red and gold, the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple is the largest Hindu place of worship in the country. With four gopurams, six bell towers and fortified walls, the kovil appears more as a citadel. The kovil was one of the sites of tragedy during the Civil War, when the LTTE committed the dastardly and sacrilegious deed of opening fire at soldiers of the Sri Lanka Army from within the sacred walls of the temple itself. Though the blood of brave men once stained its premises, the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil is once more a place of holiness and tranquility visited by people of many faiths and cultures.

The Entrance of the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil (Source: Wikipedia)

Also, in Nallur is the Archeological Museum of Jaffna, which houses a rare collection of ancient Buddhist and Hindu artifacts as well as a number of relics left behind by the colonists. One of these is an enormous portrait of Queen Victoria that was recovered from the Jaffna Fort. However, vivid images of animal sacrifice served to ruin that experience for me. Even now as I write, the images of brutality linger in the forefront of my mind, thus I will not go into any more detail, than to say that though the museum is on a majority of the lists of must-see places in Jaffna, one could most certainly do without the experience.

 After getting a bit lost, we finally found ourselves in Gurunagar, the home of the seat of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Jaffna - St. Mary's Cathedral. The cathedral is a large building lacking the grandeur and decoration that one usually expects of a structure of its rank, but otherwise stands solid and firm, the embodiment of the faith of the people of its diocese. It is said that the cathedral is in fact built over the remains of a martyr, the son of Cankili I, King of Jaffna. As the story goes, the king was furious when he learned that the prince had converted to Catholicism and ordered his execution. The ashes of the prince were buried at the spot of his execution and a small chapel (or rather a small thatched house of worship) was built over his grave. This chapel later became a part of the foundation of the present cathedral, which was built between 1789 – 1794. However, the growing number of Catholics in the region made it necessary to construct a new, much larger cathedral, which took place between 1939 - 1975. 

St. Mary's Cathedral (Source: Inspirock)

Read More

For Our Soldier

For Our Soldier 

- Dedicated to all veterans and their families

Today’s the day 

We’ve all been waiting

There’s so much to say

So many hearts racing

Welcome home son

We’re so proud of you brother

I’ve waited so long love

We have you to ourselves now father                                                 

The Almighty has brought you home

Bruised and scarred but pure and whole

It’s been a long hard road

We’ve seen the years take their toll

You’ve bravely served our country

From East to West and North to South

And been declared the victor

Having looked inside War’s ugly mouth.

You’ve inspired your men

Leading from the front

Of bullets, shrapnel and mines

You’ve often taken the brunt

For your fallen boys

We’ve seen you mourn

For the tragedy of lost lives

You’ve felt you must atone

We’ve watched you rise 

And seen you fall

We still remember the times

We waited anxiously for your call

But now you’re home with us

We don’t plan to let you go

As always we will love and support you

By your side we will face any foe

A grateful nation salutes you

To them you’re a soldier no more

But our brave warrior you will always be

The depth of our pride and joy you’ll never know

                                                                                                                 By Stephanie Nugara

Read More